Though you won’t necessarily see it if you visit, Japan is still struggling to rebuild after one of the greatest natural disasters in its history.
On March 11, 2011, a magnitude 9.0 earthquake rocked the Northeastern coast of Japan. The Great East Japan Earthquake (as it is called) propelled a powerful tsunami cresting at over 133 feet with waters flowing as far as six miles inland. The destruction wiped out entire communities and caused an unprecedented nuclear crisis when a major nuclear power plant was damaged. The damage was worst in Northern Japan (Tohoku), centered around the coastal Miyagi, Iwate, and Fukushima prefectures.
The most recent stats have confirmed almost 16,000 deaths, over 6,000 injured, and today — three years later – that more than 2,600 people still missing. In the aftermath of the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear meltdown, 470,000 people were evacuated from coastal communities in the exclusion zone. Most of those have not been able to return to their homes.
I remember the heartbreaking photographs from the disaster’s aftermath like it was yesterday, but when I decided to visit the Tohoku region on my recent trip to Japan, I knew I needed to learn a lot more about how the community was doing today. Luckily, a small local museum just blocks from my house was there to help me share this story.
From Tohoku to California
Last month, I attended an event at The Japanese American Museum of San Jose. This talk, “Ai Love Japan: Tohoku Update 2014” (recorded and posted at this link) featured a discussion with Darryll Miho, a Southern California-based volunteer and filmmaker who has made several trips to Northern Japan to document the recovery. The event also included a live Skype chat with several displaced residents from the Tohoku region.
We learned that still today, a full three years after the event, somewhere between 150,000 and 267,000 evacuees are still living in temporary housing units. And their stories were powerful.
Volunteers mentioned the tragic story of Okawa Elementary School (in Ishinomaki, Miyagi), which lost a shocking 70 of 108 students and 10 out of 13 teachers and staff. It wasn’t until just recently (more than two years later) that they got approval to start digging out the debris from the destroyed building.
Kiyomi Suzuki (from Minamisanriku, Miyagi) spoke about his life in a temporary dwelling and how he serves as a volunteer coordinator for his area. He talked about the many difficulties they’ve faced rebuilding housing units and how the government is going through the long and challenging process of recovery land use planning. Some of the major industries — fisheries, oyster, and seaweed processing plants along the coast have been rebuilt, but the relocation of residential communities are still being debated. Measures are being considered like mountaintop clearance to make more flat space for this needed construction. He talked about the how hard it was for local residents to find jobs, and at first, get food and transportation to grocery stores because residents lost their cars and public transit networks were destroyed. He also mentioned the ongoing need of mental health services in the community for residents struggling from the stress of living in shelters and related mental health issues.
Ryuta Kamikokuryo (from Koriyama, Fukushima) runs a mobile daycare center for young children living in housing shelters in Fukushima prefecture (see video above). He talked about how, even today, parents close to the Fukushima exclusion zone are afraid to let their children outside to play outside for fear they will pick up plants and leaves that may have radioactive materials. Every weekend, he loads 20 children into a van and drives them either an hour west into the mountains, or an hour north to the beach where they can learn about nature, and play freely.
Mitsuru Tani (from Futaba, Fukushima) was a rice farmer. After the earthquake struck, he used his tractor to help remove debris and help clear roads. At 10pm, he finally returned home, but frequent aftershocks scared his pet dogs, who wouldn’t stop barking. He spent the night sleeping in the hallway trying his best to comfort the dogs. At 7:30 the next morning, emergency workers came to his door and told him he would have to evacuate. In the past three years, he has only been able to return to his home seven times and each time for no more than one hour at a time. He still lives in temporary housing in Shirakawa City and serves as mayor of his temporary housing unit. His 173 acres of land won’t be cleared as safe to farm for more than a decade.
Three-Year Anniversary
Though their stories were sad, each of the people interviewed seemed upbeat and hopeful for the future. Today marks the three-year anniversary of this event. Across Japan, there are memorial ceremonies today. During our trip to Tohoku, we saw surprisingly little obvious physical damage. But just beneath the surface, we could sense the community’s lingering pain.
Kevin and I both found the Miyagi area to be a great place to visit and think it’s worth a stop on any trip to Japan. In upcoming posts, we’ll will share more stories about the people and places that inspired us and tips for traveling to Tohoku.
Jessica - Notes of Nomads says
Thank you for sharing this, Cassie. I’m so glad that you included Tohoku on your visit to Japan. That is such an important part of recovery for the local community. They really need us to spend our tourist dollar there, to frequent their businesses, to start coming back.
Thank you for engaging with the topic even when you got back home and sharing the stories that came out of the event you attended. I’m looking forward to your future Tohoku posts.
Cassie Kifer says
Thanks, Jessica! I agree and found people around the country were really excited to find out we were planning to visiting the Sendai area. It is an important part of rebuilding, not to mention there are lots of interesting and beautiful things to see and do. And the food! I brought home a bunch of awesome Sendai Miso and these smoked, pickled radishes that I fell in love with. Too bad we couldn’t bring the seafood 🙂
I was excited to find the post you link to below and was excited to also excited to read this whole series you’ve written called “Rebuilding Tohoku”. Here’s the link for anyone interested! http://notesofnomads.com/category/re-building-tohoku/
Arnette RTW says
Ahhh I remember this day so well. I was in the Philippines packing up to head to Japan for a 3 week long trip. While my flight did not get cancelled, my friends in Japan recommended to delay my flight. I pushed it 4 months later. It’s crazy how the world usually forgets but the locals still deal with it daily.
Thanks for sharing this!
Cassie Kifer says
Thanks for sharing your memory and your experience, Arnette! And you’re right, it’s hard to think of all of the things that happen around the world that we hear about for a few days or weeks (if that!) but locals deal with them for years to come. Glad you did take the opportunity to visit Japan later in your trip.
Hilarye says
My dad when he was 19 years old (so long long ago) served a church mission in Japan for two years and told me there is saying there- and I wish I knew Japan so I could say it right- that means we are all in this together. And I just love it because there really is something special and unique about the Japenese people.
Kevin Adams says
Yeah, that is beautiful, and after going to Japan and meeting all the wonderful, kind people there, I most certainly feel that way. From what I learned about Japanese history, I’m not surprised they have a saying like that, too. They’ve been farming, fishing, and living closely together for ten thousand years. To quote our interpreter, “It’s in their DNA.” 🙂
To me, it also goes hand in hand with another Japanese saying we heard that struck a chord with me… “Always forward, never backward.” If you have a whole community of people working together toward the same goal, you will never fail.
I know it sounds cheesy, but Japan, more than any place I’ve ever been to, just needs to be experienced first hand. You just can’t appreciate their culture enough if you only see the beautiful photos and hear the stories. I was there for a week, but I’ll probably be processing all the things I saw on that trip for the rest of my life.