A few years ago Kevin and I visited Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Torres del Paine National Park) in Chile’s Patagonia region. This visit to the end of the earth was amazing, but we found it somewhat challenging trip to plan. Seeking to address the lack of information we found online, we shared the post, Tips for the W Trek in Torres del Paine, Chile. As you can see from the comments, we still get a lot of questions from travelers seeking help planning their trip. One commenter–and Chilean local–Charlotte Bailey Catalán, offered to write this guest post and share some more Torres del Paine trip planning advice. Thanks, Charlotte! — Cassie
For most travellers, visiting Patagonia is a once in a lifetime experience, so it’s important to plan carefully and plan ahead!
The first thing I say to anyone doing any Torres del Paine hiking trip or trek is to be ready for high prices. This is different than many parts of South America that are often considered affordable places to visit. Patagonia (in both Chile and Argentina) is not cheap, and it might be a bit hard to travel there on a tight budget, so be sure to plan ahead!
Start in Puerto Natales, Chile:
The town of Puerto Natales is a common base for all trips to Torres del Paine National Park.
Once you’ve settled in Puerto Natales, I recommend taking at least one full day in town to organize yourself before heading out to Torres del Paine. This includes: buying supplies, renting equipment, arranging tickets, stays in refugios, etc.
If you are on a very tight budget, it’s best to buy all your food supplies in Puerto Natales. Food is available at the refugios, but the prices are a bit high. You’ll want to pack light for your trek, so don’t overpack food. Keep it simple, rely on water-based preparations like instant oatmeal, instant mashed potatoes, instant soups. If you buy these things in larger quantities, divide out portions, so you only take what you are going to eat.
Where to stay in Puerto Natales:
There are plenty of accommodations in Puerto Natales, but in high season (October to April) everything fills up pretty fast, so do make a reservation before you arrive. The prices for a decent place to stay in Puerto Natales will vary around $9.000 – $12.000 CLP per person in dorms or $25.000 – $35.000 CLP for a double room with breakfast included. Most hostels and hotels offer free bag storage, so you can leave the stuff you don’t want for your trek there while you are at the park.
(Note from Cassie: We stayed at Hostal Sir Francis Drake in Puerto Natales and thought it was a great place to stay before and after Torres del Paine. It was affordable, comfortable, and convenient. They let us store our excess gear there while we did the hike.)
Getting to Torres del Paine National Park:
Getting to Torres del Paine is easy since basically you only have one choice: Buses that leave from the central bus station. As of last season, four companies ran this route (Buses Gomez, Buses JB, Buses Maria Jose and Via Paine). The prices range from $10.000 – $15.000 CLP round trip, and you can buy your ticket at most hostels, travel agencies, or directly at the bus station.
It’s a 2.5 hour bus ride until the first bus stop at “Estancia Laguna Amarga”. Here you will be asked to step off the bus to pay the park entrance fee of $18.000 CLP for foreign visitors. Right now, there is no limit of how many people can enter the park each day. In high season about 1,200 people visit the park each day.
From here, depending on which trek you are doing and which direction you will be going, you will either get off the bus or jump back on it. All of the buses make three stops (#1. Laguna Amarga, #2. Pudeto, #3. Administracion).
Choose Your Trek:
The most common Torres del Paine treks and hiking routes to take are as follows (NOTE: The number of days listed are common estimates, but in Patagonia, everything depends on the weather! High season is extremely windy at times and this might hold you up a bit. To be safe, always plan with 1 or 2 days to spare, just in case!).
The Circuit (“O” circuit) — 8-10 days
You will begin your trek in Hosteria Las Torres, going counterclockwise.
Variation (“Q” circuit) — 9-11 days
If you’re going for the “Q” (which adds 1 day to the “O” circuit), you begin your trek at the last bus stop, “Administracion”. From here you make an easy walk up to Refugio Paine Grande (facing the Macizo Paine) which gives a beautiful view of the park. Then you can go clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on whether you’d like to leave the John Garner pass for the beginning or the end of your trek.
The “W” (East to West) — 4-5 days. You’ll be getting off on the first bus stop, “Laguna Amarga”. From here, you can either take one of the shuttles that drive you over to Hotel Las Torres, or you can walk there. This is an easy walk (only about 1.5 hrs) but my recommendation is to take the shuttle and save that time for some of the more intense trekking to come. The “W” can be done comfortably in 4 or 5 days, but in perfect conditions, 3 days is possible. In high season, having the afternoon bus, most people make it back to Puerto Natales on the 4th day. (Note from Cassie: This is the direction we went, as described in this post)
The “W” (West to East) — 4-5 days
For this option, you will need to get off the bus on the 2nd bus stop, “Pudeto”. Here you will take the ferry across the Pehoe Lake, which is always synched with the arrival of the buses (take the ferry across Lake Pehoe, not across Grey Lake). The ferry will cost around $12.000 CLP one way, and it will be a half hour trip until you reach Paine Grande. A variation of this is to get off on the last bus stop, “Administracion,” and hike up to Paine Grande instead of taking the ferry across Lake Pehoé.
Click here for a detailed map of the park.
Where To Stay in Torres del Paine:
There are three main options for places to stay along the trek–hotel, camping, or staying in refugios (dormitory-style cabins).
Hotel: There is one luxury hotel (Hotel Las Torres) located on the east side of the park, near Refugio Torre Central. If your budget allows it, this would be a very special base for your trip!
Camping and Refugios: Camping gives you the most options in the park and lets you wake up closer to the major vistas than you can get when staying in refugios. There are public campgrounds (operated by All CONAF, Chile’s national park agency) and private campsites. All the public CONAF campsites are free, but in high season, you are only allowed to stay at each free site for one night.
Refugios are rustic dorm-like lodges with shared rooms and shared bathrooms, some refugios offer private cabins.
The refugios and private campsites belong to these two companies:
- Fantastico Sur operates the campsites and refugios on the east side of the park.
- Vertice Patagonia operates the campsites and refugios on the west side of the park.
Check their websites for more information about these options. (Note from Cassie: We shared our thoughts on camping vs. refugios in this post)
Other thoughts:
- Walking poles: I say yes, bring them. They will give your knees a big rest, and can help you when it gets really windy and you need something to hang on to (i.e. Paso del Viento).
- Going solo? The “W” trek is packed in high season which makes it pretty safe to go on your own. Just never be the first or last to leave camp.
- Clothing: I recommend one set of clothes to walk in (3 layers) and 1 for sleeping (thermal), 1 pair of trekking shoes/boots, hat, sunglasses, bandana, and gloves). Also, wear sunscreen! The sun’s rays are intense. (Note from Cassie: We shared our packing lists here: women’s list / men’s list. These are multi-destination trip lists–we left some of this clothing and gear at our hotel in Puerto Natales.
- Weather conditions: “What’s the weather going to be like for the next 5 days?” was the question I got the most, and the one I was never really prepared for. Why? Because the weather in Patagonia is unpredictable, seriously unpredictable! So, just prepare for the worst case scenario (rain, wind and mice–yes, mice!) and whatever it is you get, enjoy it!
- Equipment: If you’re camping, be sure (whether you are buying or renting) that you have adequate gear for the trek. Sleeping bags should be at least -10°C and tents should be professional mountaineering 4 season tents.
If you have any questions, leave a comment below and we’ll try to help. Best of luck on your travels!
Author: Charlotte Bailey Catalán is a native Chilean with a passion for different cultures. A modern day nomad who has lived in USA, Canada, and Perú, she currently lives in Argentina. Update, February 2016: After four years of working in tourism, she recently opened a bed and breakfast in El Calafate (Argentinian Patagonia) with her fiancé. If you are heading that way, consider booking one of her two double rooms on AirBnb).
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All photos belong to EverInTransit.com, except for the final shot and the route maps which were contributed by Charlotte Bailey Catalán.
Hello Charlotte,
Many thanks for one of the best articles online to prepare trek to Torres del Plaines!
You mention that Refugio’s and camping should be booked in advance if trekking in high season. How long in advance do you think? We will hike in January and we want to make sure to have a spot!
Also, I have not been able to find if it’s possible to book the free camping spots of the Conaf?
Many thanks in advance!
Hi Amandine, I’d try to book the refugios ASAP. We went in early January and I’m pretty sure we booked by fall. I don’t think you have to book the CONAF camping sites, but I’m not sure. Have a great trip!
Many thanks Cassie!
Thanks for sharing this article, it’s so far the best I’ve found!
Cassie, would you know if we can rent tents and camping equipment at the camping sites? of do we have to rent them before we go into the park? Also, as you suggested using walking poles. Do you perhaps know if this is something I could rent either at the entrance of the park or at Puerto Natales?
Thanks again for your post, I’ve got a much better idea of the trekking in the park now 🙂
Hi Silvana, you cannot rent gear at the campsites, you must do it at Puerto Natales. And if you’re only renting walking poles, you can ask yourself if you really need them. If we did it again, I wouldn’t take them, but maybe Cassie would. It’s just a preference, and one more thing to carry.
Great post! Thanks very much! I’m actually preparing the trip over there. Do you think it’s possible to rent a tent in puerto Natales? And if so, what would be the cost? thanks!
Hi Eloi, It’s definitely possible to rent a tent (and any other camping gear) in Puerto Natales, there are lots of stores. I don’t know how much it would cost. Have a great trip!
Hello. Is that store with supplies ,in the picture, in puerto natales?
Thank you
Yes, it is! I can’t remember exactly where it was though, but the downtown is very small.
Hi Cassie,
Im trying to book a 4 or 5 day trek for 2 people for early January, so time is of the essence if we are not already too late! I just cant figure out from all the blogs I ve read, and from the Lonely Planet, whether you return to the same base you started from each night or if you are hiking from one destination to another. Can you help me please? I dónt know what to book until I know this.
Hi Jenny, if you are staying in refugios, in most cases you hike from refugio to refugio on the W. Trek, though the hike to Las Torres is probably best starting and ending at the Refugio Las Torres (I think we stayed there two nights, the night we arrived in the park, and then the next day after the Las Torres hike). Have a great trip!
Great info!!!
Trying to be realistic on how long it will actually take me to get to puerto Natales. I have roughly scheduled a flight to PA from Santiago and bussing to PN in one day— is that realistic? Thanks?
Hi Marnie, I think so, but it would depend on the timing of the buses. Give yourself an extra day just to be safe. The flight from Santiago was pretty long–4 or 5 hours, I believe. Have a great trip!
Thanks so much for this Cassie, its been very helpful.
I was wondering if you would recommend it being easy/ difficult for a person to track solo?
Thank you so much for this article–it’s very helpful! My husband and I are planning a trip for the end of September. What month was the last photo in this post taken? We’re trying to figure out if we should prepare to hike in snow. Thank you!
Hi Laurie, I didn’t take this photo so I hope Charlotte spots this.
But if you are going during the primary tourist season (North American winter/South American summer) it won’t snow, but be prepared for rain. I took all of the rest of these photos (and the ones in this post: https://everintransit.com/tips-for-the-w-trek-in-torres-del-paine-chile/) when we visited TDP in early January. Have a great trip!
Hey Cassie
Very nice your article! It’s great! I ‘m checking myself to plan a few days to Torres del Paine for the end of December this year. Have now booked one night in Paine Grande and then a night at Grey Lodge. Actually I would like the night before to book something near the Torres so I can see them also. Do you know if it is possible to book 1 night in the area of the Torres and then, on day two, take, a bus from the Torres to Pudeto from where i want to go by boat to Paine Grande?
In addition, I was just wondering where I can arrange bus tickets from Puerto Natales to the park and back. So far i can’t find anything on the Internet. Whether I ‘m currently too early? Like to hear from you and hope you can help me further? For you a very nice weekend !
Greetings Gerdien
I have a couple of questions.
You mention the necessity for having a four season tent, I have a three season that I have used in all but the harshest winter conditions, will my three season be okay or do I really need a four season?
Also, we will be arriving in a rental car and I have not been able to find any topics on if and where we can park a car for the 9 days we will be trekking?
It’s really not THAT cold there, and it doesn’t snow that much. So as long as your tent keeps out rain and can stand up to heavy winds, that’s what I’d focus on. I took a bus from Puerto Natales. Perhaps you can find a place to park there and take the bus? I am not sure about parking options in TDP itself.
Hello! My fiancée and I are heading to Chile in 1 week. We are planning to book a combination of private campsites with tents and whatnot booked onsite and refugios. We want to carry as little as possible. Do you know if we can also rent gear at the free campsites? If so, how? Thanks in advance!
I believe you need to rent gear in Puerto Natales, as the park itself is far more remote than you’d expect. Most of the trail is not accessible by anything other than a mule train, and I don’t remember any places to rent gear, and definitely not at the free campsites. Those are not staffed at all.
Hi Guys,
Amazing blog – thanks for keeping up with the comments.
My friend and I are currently in Ushuaia and will be travelling to TDP through Puerto Natales by bus. We’re really struggling to know which refugios/campsites to book which nights because we don’t know where they are on the route. Is there anywhere that has a step by step guide to the routes? Or does someone know where they are on the routes?
Thanks very much!
If you are planning to trek the W, Fantastico Sur’s Website is a decent source of information about the refugios and the route, and the only place to book space there. The refugios themselves are spaced strategically so that you can do one day’s hike between each one. And the W itself is shaped so that 3 of the days are “there and back” style hikes. It’s really pretty easy once you get there. I remember worrying about everything beforehand and then everything pretty much worked itself out.
Thank you so much!
Just one more question (sorry!) – We’ve decided to camp over the 5 day trek but we’re paranoid that we’re going to get to a camp and it’s going to be full. Could we ever be in a position where we’re just not going to be able to sleep anywhere? We heard that you’re not allowed to camp outside the designated zones.
Thanks!
Hi Ben, we can’t really speak to that because we didn’t camp, but it seemed like you could just find an open space and pop your tent in the campsite area. People on the hike are accommodating and would probably help make room for you if it was full. But this is definitely a question for the local contacts when you get to Puerto Natales. Any gear outfitter or travel booking company will be able to answer those questions. Good luck and let us know how your trip goes! Let me know if you would like to share some of your pictures and tips in a guest post, as you can see we still get tons of questions every year 🙂
Hi,
We will be hiking in a park in the middle of March. We are trying to decide what hotels better to reserve ( on east or west side of the park) for day hiking. We want to see as much as possible during our 6 days stay in park. We are experienced hikers and campers but prefer to stay in hotel in Torres Del Paine mostly because of unpredictable weather.
Thank you.
Hi Olga, if you are looking for a hotel, I’d recommend Hotel Las Torres because it’s right at the base of the trail to the Towers. The refugios are a fine option too, if you don’t mind sharing the room and bathroom.
Hi, Thanks for posting your travel tips on the blog.
We are planning to Torres del Paine NP in March for 3 days and 2 nights. Which hikes would you recommend? We are thinking about hiking the Base of Torres, Grey Glacier (would like to do kayaking), not sure about the third one yet. Is it achievable. is there private bus service inside the park?
We would like to stay in the park in the Refugios. Are they strategically placed that we can stay in one place for all three days?
What time does the last bus from the park leave to Puerto Natales? Are there any other private buses we can take later in the day (after 4pm)
Thanks in advance.
Hi Prady, I don’t believe there is bus service inside the park, but I’m not sure. And the Refugios are spaced out such that it’s not really feasible to stay in one place for the whole time, if you want to see base of Torres and Grey Glacier. I don’t know anything about the bus schedule, you should go by the bus station when you get to Puerto Natales. Best of luck!
Thanks for quick response.
I’ve heard some fruits and nuts are not allowed to be brought into Chile. I’m cold camping and plan to bring jerky, nuts, and dried fruit. Any idea what is allowed in?
I don’t, but I would recommend just buying that stuff there. There is a great bulk good store in Puerto Natales (pictured in this post) where you can get all of that stuff for a good price. Have fun!
I’m just interested in some easy day hikes or even just sight seeing. Can you guide me?
Hi Hannah, I’d say coming from the Hosteria Las Torres side would be best. You can do day hikes over to Nordenksjold, or a day hike up to Las Torres, if you are up for the trek. Have a great trip!
Hey, on Tuesday, me and 4 friends are going to TDP but we want to know if there is a way for reaching the catamaran in lago grey to the refugio and then start the w trek.
Thanks in advance.
I think there is, but you should definitely ask around in Puerto Natales (possibly the Fantastico Sur office?) to make sure and actually get a spot.
Hi Cassie,
If you are camping and don’t want to carry your food, can you buy all your meals at the refuggios?
Similarly if you have bought a bed only package that does not include meals can you use the refuggio restaurants to buy all your meals?
I have the same question.
Matt, please see my response to Canna, above… Have a great trip!
Hi Canna, I believe I remember that campers can buy meal plans to eat in the refugios, but you should check with the refugio operators to be sure. Some of the campsites are quite far from the refugios so you should pack in food if you will be staying at one that’s not near a refugio at your breakfast/dinner time. Hope that helps!
Hi Cassie… What do you mean mice? Mice?
Haha, good question! I’m not exactly sure what she meant by that. I’m assuming she saw mice at her campsite or in one of the refugios? (We never saw mice in the refugios we stayed in–they were very clean and well-maintained)
Hello!
Very helpful post. I have a question regarding availability of transport from the Guarderia Pudeto (pier for the CATARAMAN) to El Calafate. I am interested in getting to El Calafate soon and was wondering if there are shuttles/cabs available at that point or at the Laguna Amargo point who are willing to go all the way to El Calafate.
Thanks,
Sachit
Hi Sachit, I’m sorry, but we didn’t go to El Calafate so I can’t answer that question. Maybe reach out to your hotel there and ask them if they know how to get there from TDP? Have a great trip!
Hi. I am very frustrated, as the fantasticosur is the worst website (and service) ever. I am staying Day 1 in camping grey, day 2 in camping paine grande, day 3????, then day 4 in refugio chileno.
Domo and camping frances are booked up as is camping and refugio cuernos. Where should we (5 of us) stay if all of that is booked! We didnt want to bring equipment….looks like we might have to.
Hi Katie, I’m sorry but I’m not terribly familiar with the campsites. If you want to bring camping gear, you can rent it in Puerto Natales (there are lots of gear rental shops) so you don’t need to travel with it. Hope that helps!
Hi there! Thank you for all of the wonderful information. Do you know if you can store luggage at the entrance to the park -Estancia Laguna Amarga?
Thanks so much, I really appreciate the info here!
Hello! Thank you for your post it is the most helpful one I’ve read so far! My fiance and I are planning to trek the O or the Q for our honeymoon and we are interested in ending our honeymoon at Hotel Las Torres for some rest and relaxation. Is it possible to do the full circuit and end at Laguna Amarga? Thanks in advance!
Hello Cassie,
We want to go to Torres del Paine in February of 2019. We will not be going from camp to camp. We want to base in one of the places that is the closest to the Mirador. I have read so many blogs and it’s becoming too much to figure out! We are not rich so can’t pay someone thousands of US dollars to book hotels, guides etc. I just looked at Hotel Las Torres and it’s very expensive!
I am 61 and my husband is 72. We are active people and reasonably fit. I would like to drive from Calafate to Puerto Natales and then into the park. We love driving and having that independence. Do you see many “older” (we are not “elderly”!) people doing this? Also, which refugio or hotel is the closest to the Mirador hike? I also read about horse back riding up to a certain point then hiking the rest of the way. Any advice for us?
Sincerely,
Tissa Loehr
Hi Charlotte,
I am planning a trip with 2 other friends and we are travelling to Puerto Natales during the week of Christmas.
We wish to hike the W trek in Torres Del Paine National park from Dec 22-26th. I need your guidance in this respect.
We will be renting a car from Punta Arenas and driving to Puerto Natales. We are not big into camping so we were thinking of driving back and forth everyday from Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine and completing the W trek (trying to do 1 trek a day). All hotels within the park are already booked and hence we thought of keeping Puerto Natales as our base and visit Torres Del Paine everyday.
We are thinking of the following itinerary based on your suggestions
Day 1
Puerto Natales to the Base of the Torres and back
Day 2
Puerto Natales to Nordenskjöld Lake and back
Day 3
Puerto Natales to French Valley and back
Day 4
Puerto Natales to Glacier Grey and back.
We will be taking our rental car into the park everyday. Do you think this itinerary is doable ? We welcome your suggestions on how to plan this itinerary.